簡介／

Many perceptions of the Vietnamese Áo dài focus on its modern elegance, often seen as a 20th-century creation. However, this view only scratches the surface. The modern Áo dài is the result of a long, complex historical journey, not a singular invention.

Its deepest roots can be traced to the Giao lĩnh (cross-collar robe), a garment adopted through profound historical and cultural interactions with China. But this was not simple imitation. This presentation will explore how the Vietnamese people engaged in "selective adaptation"—skillfully modifying this garment to suit the local climate while forging a distinct cultural identity. This process created a unique Vietnamese aesthetic: one that acknowledged its connection to the greater Sinospheric "Celestial Empire" while asserting its own cultural sovereignty.

This evolution culminated in the 15th-16th centuries, amidst Vietnam's internal divisions, with the birth of the Áo ngũ thân (five-paneled robe)—a direct predecessor to the modern Áo dài and a clear statement of a separate identity from the northern polity within the State.

Later, during the French colonial period, this robe underwent another dramatic transformation, integrating Western tailoring techniques and aesthetic sensibilities. This synergy gave birth to the graceful, form-fitting silhouette we recognize today, celebrated for honoring the female form.

Recently, a powerful revival movement has re-popularized traditional robes, including the Áo ngũ thân for men. This revival is crucial as it helps the public understand the complete history of the Áo dài, dispelling common misunderstandings and clarifying its unique lineage, distinct from the coincidental similarities with the Chinese Qipao (sườn xám).

This talk is not just a lesson in fashion, but an engaging journey through history, cultural exchange, and the story of how a nation tells its story through its garments.

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